REPAIR PORTRAIT | CARLOS ZAPATA
A portrait of an artist, as seen through the slow repair of his beloved indigo Chinese work shirt.
‘As I start working with my hands and making marks, the piece begins to talk. Its personality grows and becomes stronger as I work. At the end I think, wow - that came out of me? I didn’t know that was in there.’
Columbian born artist Carlos Zapata has an open and emotional relationship with sculpture. Where hand carving and painting is in conversation with the material. And as the character of a piece is revealed, so are his own memories and questions.
This intuitive approach helps Carlos to explore themes of conflict, poverty and complex tensions of religion and race with empathy and compassion. Drawn from his own childhood witnessing of war, class and indigenous appropriation. Carved and painted sculptures with layers of texture and hidden depths of process and experience.
‘You know, I don’t think about these things when I’m working. I only analyse when I’m asked. Of course it’s all connected with experience, and my life… I love the ritual of work. Travelling to the studio, picking up my tools. The things that get me into this place.’
A lot of artists and makers can relate to this inward journey. Each with their own framework of practised and repeated actions to access something more instinctive. A vehicle to connection that is difficult to capture in words. And yet over time, Carlos’ traditional Chinese work shirt has unintentionally captured some of it…
Discovered in a shop in Covent Garden, taken to Columbia and lost for two years, rediscovered and treasured as daily workwear thereafter. An unassuming constant in the studio for 35 years, sharing and noting down all of Carlos’ routines.
Now uniquely soft, dappled and shaped, the personality of this shirt can be read with forensic detail:
Faded and thinned on the lower front panels where small pieces of carving are worked up close. Patterned with tiny flecks of gold, carmine red, azure blue and India green from detailed, carnavalesque painting. Stretched and torn pocket corners from standing back to evaluate work progress. Gathered layers of watered down paint in the left elbow crease where brushes are gently squeezed and dried at the end of the day.
Last year Carlos brought me this very special garment after it became too delicate to wear. Since then I’ve borrowed its company in between my projects in the workshop and during quiet evenings at home. Opting for an entirely hand stitched repair for a lighter touch that doesn’t overwork the original textile.
I’ve alternated between darning, patchwork and Sashiko stitching, depending on the style of the damage and my mood at the time. I wanted to find a balance between a visible repair and preserving the unique, and very personal, quality of the fabric. At times I blended the mend into the indigo as much as possible. And others, I matched the thread to some of the paint flecks to highlight its texture of time.
Although this first stage of repair work is complete, it is still too delicate to continue its workshop service. Instead the shirt will be promoted out of work and into a more ceremonial role. A piece to commemorate Carlos’ art practice and everything that he continues to express.
An on-going, and now shared, conversation with material.
